Kahuna

(see info in Notes) Strictly defined as a Hawaiian word for priest, wise man, witch doctor, or sorcerer. Surfers in the mid-20th century playfully adopted Kahuna as their own pagan god of waves, and over the decades have ritually sacrificed thousands of surfboards— usually by immolation—to honor Kahuna and bring up the big surf. Kahuna was also the name of the sage older surfer in Frederick Kohne...