pocket

Steep section of the wave face just ahead of the whitewater; more closely defined as the area within the shadow of the falling curl. "All pockets are not the same," Hawaiian big-wave surfer Mark Foo wrote in 1979. "At Burleigh Heads [Australia] the pocket is low on the wave face, at Uluwatu [Indone- sia] it's high, and at Backdoor [Hawaii] the entire wave face is a pocket." The surfer riding "in t...