wave height and measurement

This unfinished page contains text from either the 2003 or 2005 print version of Encyclopedia of Surfing. An updated version, with more photos, is coming soon.

As a matter of science, wave weight is defined as the average distance between the trough and the crest of all open- ocean waves that pass by a stationary point over a given period of time—one hour for many Internet reports, for example. Open-ocean wave height is a pri- mary indicator for surf size. Nearly as important is wave "period" or "interval," roughly defined as the average amount of time b...

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