EOS Features

"RIO: CITY OF LOVE . . . AND SURF!" SURFER MAGAZINE (1968)

This uncredited article was written by Rio surfer and photojournalist Tito Rosemberg, along with Johnny Hansen, and was published in the January 1968 issue of SURFER. * * * What happens when a carioca takes vira vaca at Baixio? If you’ve ever been to Rio—the meaning is simple: a local Copacabana Beach surfer has taken a wipeout (literally translated to "rolling the cow") at Baixio, a break note...

DAYS OF SUN, YEARS OF LEAD: TITO ROSEMBERG REMEMBERS RIO IN THE 1960s

Tito Rosemberg is best known as a hardcore Land Rover-loving surf adventurer. He has visited over 100 countries, lived and worked in many of them, and surfed throughout. Before all that, however, Rosemberg was one of Brazil's original hardcore carioca surfers, spending his days on the beach at Arpoador, and his nights in the homes, clubs and restaurants of nearby Ipanema and Copacabana, at a time ...

PETER TROY GOES SURFING IN RIO (1964)

Wayfaring Australian surfer Peter Troy has often been cited as the person who introduced surfing to Brazil, in 1964. A SURFER profile on Troy, for example, tells the story as follows: "While in Rio, [Troy] met the son of a French ambassador who had been given a surfboard but couldn't ride it. As he strolled down the beach at Copacabana, Troy saw the familiar shape. Using sign language, Troy borrow...

“BENEATH THE AFRICAN SUN,” BY KEVIN NAUGHTON AND CRAIG PETERSON (1975)

This installment of the Naughton-Peterson travel articles took place mainly in Morocco and Western Sahara, and ran in the July 1975 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * "So long. Vicky!" “Goodbye. Fela!” "Oh . . . uh . . . our addresses? Yeah, sure! You have a pen?" And so we exchanged addresses with promises to write. The final gesture of a farewell with two lovely y...

"WHY DON'T JEWS SURF?" H2O MAGAZINE (1980)

“Why Don’t Jews Surf?” ran in the Spring 1980 issue of H2O magazine, and was written by A. M. Strand, which is almost certainly a pseudonym for H2O publisher-editor and former top-ranked California surfer Marty Sugarman. An editor’s note advises the reader to “take this article with a grain of sand,” which doesn’t mean the piece is full satire, or anywhere close. It reads to me like Sugarman, who ...

"SURFER GERLACH HAS A CERTAIN STYLE," BRAD GERLACH PROFILE IN LA TIMES (1986)

Sarah Smith's LA Times profile on Brad Gerlach ran on August 29, 1986. The full title is "Surfer Gerlach has a Certain Style: Flamboyance, Personality Set Him Apart on Pro Tour." This version has been slightly edited. * * * When professional surfer Brad Gerlach was 14 months old, his father threw him off the high dive into a swimming pool. When Joe Gerlach plunged in, he found his son paddling u...

“THE SUMMER MILLIONAIRE” – SHANE STEDMAN PROFILE BY MICK MOCK

Mick Mock's profile on Sydney surf entrepreneur Shane Stedman ran in the Winter 1999 issue of Deep magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * His life is a strand pulled through three decades of Sydney surfing summers: from a 1960s tin-shed surfboard factory, to popout boards and Ugg boots, to a surf reporter's voice on a car radio as the sun burns away the morning haze. For many of ...

"KINGS OF QUEENS: NEW YORK 1966," BY TYLER BREUER

At the beginning of this clip you see a skinny big-nosed fellow attempting to skateboard. It’s like he’s pretending to be the great alpine skier Stein Eriksen: parallel stance, knees together, shoulders forward and hips moving side to side. Except he loses control and nearly goes face-first into a parking meter. That’s my dad, Winfried Breuer, owner and operator of Sundown Ski and Surf Shop in L...

JUDY TRIM TRIBUTE TO SHANE STEDMAN

Judy Trim wrote this essay on her longtime boardmaker and friend Shane Stedman, shortly before she died in 2018. It appeared in The Shane Gang, Stedman's autobiography, published that same year. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Wham, bang, smash—the new era had arrived. Shortboards, powerful bottom turns, re-entries, and radical cutbacks. The Everly Brothers, the Stomp with Little Pa...

A LOOK BACK AT MALIBU'S JOJO PERRIN

Malibu surfer Jojo Perrin died in early January 2023, at age 72. He was best known as the lightning-quick 14-year-old Santa Monica High freshman who took on the best surfers in the state during the 1964 Malibu Invitational and finished 3rd—ahead of Miki Dora, Mike Doyle, Rusty Miller, and other A-team surf stars. While he transitioned easily to the new short surfboards in 1968, and for a few years...