At the beginning of this clip you see a skinny big-nosed fellow attempting to skateboard. It’s like he’s pretending to be the great alpine skier Stein Eriksen: parallel stance, knees together, shoulders forward and hips moving side to side. Except he loses control and nearly goes face-first into a parking meter. That’s my dad, Winfried Breuer, owner and operator of Sundown Ski and Surf Shop in L...
Judy Trim wrote this essay on her longtime boardmaker and friend Shane Stedman, shortly before she died in 2018. It appeared in The Shane Gang, Stedman's autobiography, published that same year. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Wham, bang, smash—the new era had arrived. Shortboards, powerful bottom turns, re-entries, and radical cutbacks. The Everly Brothers, the Stomp with Little Pa...
Malibu surfer Jojo Perrin died in early January 2023, at age 72. He was best known as the lightning-quick 14-year-old Santa Monica High freshman who took on the best surfers in the state during the 1964 Malibu Invitational and finished 3rd—ahead of Miki Dora, Mike Doyle, Rusty Miller, and other A-team surf stars. While he transitioned easily to the new short surfboards in 1968, and for a few years...
A line from a recent Sunday Joint, about the first two great post-revolution surfers at Pipeline—“Jock Sutherland, my third-favorite surfer as a kid, rode Pipeline like he had a stick of dynamite up his ass; Gerry Lopez rode it like Audrey Hepburn stepping out of a cab on 5th Ave"—prompted New Zealand surfer Phil Bonham, a retired art and art history teacher, to shoot me an email recalling the dec...
Margaret Ann Kandal's profile on Judy Trim ran in the October 16, 1968 issue of Australian Women's Weekly. Trim, 15, was the just-crowned national surfing champion. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Six years ago a cult swept Australia. It brought with it new jargon for the teenagers' already revolutionary vocabulary—words such as "gas," "king," "noah," "gremlin," and "femlin." New si...
A letter from Matt Warshaw, Executive Director of Encyclopedia of Surfing. Hello surfers and all lovers of surf culture. The 2022 Encyclopedia of Surfing fundraiser is ON (December 12 - 21), and if that alone is enough to trigger the philanthropic reflex, click here to donate and here to subscribe or buy a gift sub. Big plans are afoot for EOS in 2023, and we'll get to that in a moment, but firs...
"Amplified," by Matt Warshaw, ran in the January 1989 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Two months ago in these pages, Richie Collins seemed to give a dying era the final boot when he said, “I’m not a soul surfer—I only surf for competition.” Maybe he means it. Maybe he just understands good copy. Twenty-year-old surfers, by tradition, have had little use for subtlety...
Elliot Teaford's article on Ocean Pacific's decision to drop the women's event from the upcoming Op Pro Surfing Championships ran in the May 5, 1989, issue of the Los Angeles Times. A backlash followed, and the women's event was quietly reinstated. * * * The Op Pro Surfing Championships, the annual summer showcase for the world’s top surfers held in Huntington Beach, have dropped their concurren...
"They Look Alike, The Surf Alike: Jorja and Jolene Smith Compete on the Pro Surfing Tour, but Not Against Each Other—They're in This Thing Together," by Sarah Smith, ran in the August 28, 1986, issue of the Los Angeles Times. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Jorja and Jolene Smith of San Clemente are starting only their second year on the women’s professional surfing tour, but they h...
Russ Spencer’s profile on Kemp Aaberg ran in the Summer 1999 issue of Surfer’s Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Kemp Aaberg paddled by in the steel blue light, the body still ropy and confident at 58, head down in concentration. A serious early-evening fog had settled onto Rincon, lending the chest-high waves a diffuse perfection, as if they had been created in a factory som...