EOS Features

A SHORT ILLUSTRATED LOOK AT SURFING AND BULLFIGHTING

Surfing's post-World War II infatuation with bullfighting lasted for 20 or 25 years, give or take. It's hard to say exactly how deep it ran, or if the whole thing was half-serious half-ironic (although I think it leaned serious), or if bullfighting was just the lowest-hanging fruit when somebody needed to compare the sport to another sport. Nothing has been written specifically about the surfer-b...

"INTERVIEW: FRED HEMMINGS – STATE SENATOR, CONTEST ORGANIZER, SURF LEGEND," BY DEREK RIELLY (2017)

Derek Rielly's interview with Fred Hemmings ran in the February-March 2017 issue of the Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * The taxi van pulls into the semicircle driveway of the Outrigger Canoe Club at the Diamond Head end of Waikiki. As befits an icon of Hawaiian surfing (established 1908) and of Hawaii Modern architecture (this version of the clubhouse was built in ...

FRED HEMMINGS – IN HIS OWN WORDS

Don Machado spoke to Fred Hemmings on October 5, 1985, for the Outrigger Canoe Club's oral history series. The transcript below has been shortened and edited; a full version can be read here. * * * I was born on January 9, 1945, here in Honolulu at Kapiolani Maternity Hospital. It is my good fortune to have been raised in Honolulu. I have lived my entire life as a resident of the State of Hawaii...

"AN AFTERNOON WITH FRED HEMMINGS," BY PHIL JARRATT (1975)

This short take on soon-to-be IPS founder Fred Hemmings was embedded in a longer article titled "Summer in the Islands," which ran in the July 1975 issue of Tracks. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Fred Hemmings was the world champion back in 1968. He still surfs occasionally and runs the Smirnoff Pro-Am each November. He says most of the surfers don’t understand him, but he knows wh...

"SURF CHAMP IGNORED HANDICAPS," FRED HEMMINGS PROFILE IN HONOLULU ADVERTISER (1964)

"Surf Champ Ignored Handicaps," by Bill Cook, ran in the February 2, 1964, edition of the Honolulu Advertiser, not long after Fred Hemmings' win in the Juniors division of the '63 Makaha International. The text below has been slightly edited. * * * Polio, pneumonia, a severe knee injury—none of these things prevented teenager Frederick Mathew Hemmings Jr. from becoming an international surfing c...

"EL OTRO CHE: AT HOME WITH FERNANDO AGUERRE" BY DEAN LATOURETTE (2008)

This article ran in the October 2008 issue of the Surfer's Journal. It has been slightly edited. * * * The first time I encountered Fernando Aguerre he was dressed like some sort of crazy genie, and he was running around granting everyone wishes. It was at the Waterman’s Ball, the surf industry’s annual environmental fundraiser, and Fernando was in his element. Irrationally bidding up auction it...

"WHY NOT THE OLYMPICS?" BY JAMIE RENO (1992)

This editorial ran in the September 1992 issue of Surfing. It has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Remember when three-time world champion Tommy Curren captured the gold medal for the United States at the Olympic Games in 1984? Of course you don’t remember that, because it didn’t happen. Surfing, as you probably know, is not a medal sport in the Summer Olympics. It isn’t even an exhibit...

"EQUAL TIME: OLYMPICS," BY FERNANDO AGUERRE (1996)

Fernando Aguerre, chairman of the International Surfing Association (ISA), wrote this defense of surfing and the Olympics for the Spring 1996 issue of the Surfer's Journal. It was a rebuttal to Steve Pezman's editorial from the previous issue. Aguerre's article, below, has been shortened and slightly edited. * * * In the last issue of The Journal, you ran an article regarding the improbability o...

"SURFING'S OLYMPIC DREAM SHATTERED," BY FRED PAWLE (1997)

This article ran in the February 1997 issue of Australia's Surfing Life. * * * "The door is not closed," International Olympic Committee chairman Juan Antonio Samaranch told his International Surfing Association counterpart Fernando Aguerre when they met in Lausanne last June to discuss surfing's inclusion in the Olympics, possibly as soon as Sydney in 2000. And so began an agonizing five month...

SURFING AND THE OLYMPICS: "THE NEXT MILESTONE," BY PATRICK MCNULTY (1966)

This editorial ran in the December 1966 issue of SURFER, just after the World Surfing Championships wrapped up. It has been slightly edited. * * * The third World Surfing Championships at San Diego were a milestone in the sport of surfing. Bob Ottum of Sports Illustrated described the competition: “The Championships were a breakthrough for surfing.” How true. Reporting the week-long Championshi...