EOS Features

"QUIET TRIUMPH," THE PAM BURRIDGE STORY, BY DC GREEN (1998)

"Quiet Triumph: the Remarkable Journey of Pam Burridge," by DC Green, ran in the Summer 1998 issue of Deep magazine. This version has been slightly shortened and edited. * * * Consider this: at the time of writing, Pam Burridge and Trudy Todd were the sixth- and third-highest rated surfers, respectively, on the ASP world tour. Yet Trudy only began surfing in 1990, when Pam had already been on th...

"IN TRIM: DONALD TAKAYAMA," BY SCOTT HULET (1993)

Scott Hulet's profile on Donald Takayama ran in the Summer 1993 issue of Longboard magazine. The version below has been shortened and slightly edited. * * * Donald Takayama, aka “Fuzzy,” “Bird’s-nest,” and, naturally, “DT,” led what was probably the most idyllic childhood a surfer could possibly envision. Surrounded by the High Council of Hawaiian Watermen, the beachboys, Donald was schooled in ...

HANG TIME WITH MIKE PURPUS AND ANGIE RENO: THE 1974 PLAYGIRL CAPER

California surfers Mike Purpus and Angie Reno were both in their mid-20s prime in 1974, when Playgirl magazine came calling. Both had star turns in Five Summer Stories. Purpus had just won the Malibu AAAA contest and was second runner-up in the Smirnoff. Reno was regarded among the most fearless North Shore surfers, and would later stunt-surf in Big Wednesday. Playgirl launched in 1973, according ...

1958 MAKAHA INTERNATIONAL SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS PROGRAM

The 1958 Makaha International Surfing Championships program was edited and produced by OB and Dick Patterson, both of whom were members of the event-sponsoring Waikiki Surf Club. Thanks to David Beaver for donating this program to Encyclopedia of Surfing. * * * [Thanks to David Beaver for donating this program to Encyclopedia of Surfing] ...

“BLACK SEA BLUES,” BY WILLIAM FINNEGAN (1999)

William Finnegan's "Black Sea Blues" ran in the August 15, 1999, issue of the New Yorker * * * I could have been the first man to surf the Black Sea. I got off a bus in a coastal village somewhere in northern Turkey, and there it was: brown and misty and full of mediocre, blown-out waves, dribbling in from the general direction of Odessa. This was 1970. I was a hippie surf punk from California d...

RIPPED FROM THE HEADLINES: THE SURFIE-ROCKER WARS, SYDNEY, 1962-'64

The Surfie-Rocker Wars, as named by the Sydney press, were a series of scrapes between the local middle-class suburban kids, most of whom either surfed or were in surf lifesaving clubs (Surfies), and working-class day-trippers from a few miles inland (Rockers). Nobody was killed or badly injured in the Surfie-Rocker Wars. But the fighting, on occasion, took place in broad daylight, on popular beac...

1956: EXCERPT FROM "THE NINTH WAVE," BY EUGENE BURDICK

Iowa-born Eugene Burdick (1918-1965) was an Oxford-educated Rhodes scholar teaching political theory at UC Berkeley in 1956 when The Ninth Wave, his noir-tinged first novel, was published. Burdick’s other fiction and nonfiction books include The Ugly American, a best-seller from 1958, and 1962’s Cold War thriller Fail-Safe; both were made into movies. In this excerpt, we meet budding psychopath an...

"ACCELERATOR: THE TERRY FITZGERALD STORY," BY PHIL JARRATT (2000)

Phil Jarratt's profile on Terry Fitzgerald ran in the Spring 2000 issue of Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Coledale, 1960. A collection of miner’s cottages hung like a string of imitation pearls around the neck of a coal-rich cliff that falls away to the sea. Dominating the village on the south coast of New South Wales is the Coledale Hospital, a bung...

EXCERPT FROM "A NATIVE SON OF THE GOLDEN WEST" BY JAMES HOUSTON (1971)

A Native Son of the Golden West, California writer James Houston’s first novel, was published in 1971; he went on to write several other well-received fiction and nonfiction books, and his essays appeared in the New Yorker and the New York Times. Native Son is set in the mid-1950s, and opens with California surfer Hooper Dunlap flying into Honolulu, where he tracks down his friend Jonas Vandermeer...

HANG TEN SURFWEAR IN A "MAD RACE TO KEEP UP WITH ORDERS" (1964)

"Plant Run by L.B. Couple Scores Scores with Special Suits for Surf Riders: Idea Suggested by Surfer." This Long Beach Independent Press-Telegram article by Ken Chilcote ran on February 23, 1964. * * * Thanks to the Jackie Kennedy look in fashions, a Long Beach firm has become the leading manufacturer of surf wear! When surfers "hang 10" and ride their boards in the billowing surf of the Southl...