EOS Features

“BEN” – BEN AIPA PROFILE BY BILL HAMILTON AND GERRY LOPEZ (1972)

“Ben,” a two-part profile written by Bill Hamilton and Gerry Lopez, ran in the September 1972 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * He’s a big, heavy-set guy, weighing somewhere between 225 and 250 pounds. Amazingly enough, this isn't a detriment to his surfing, which is remarkably smooth and agile. Ben is an extremely versatile surfer, adapting well to any...

U-TURN ON THE "NIGHT TRIP"? JOCK SUTHERLAND ANSWERS ALLAN WEISBECKER

In August 2020, EOS posted "Jock's Night Trip," by Allan Weisbecker, an article that originally ran in a 1992 issue of Surfing. "Night Trip" is possibly the most 1969 story on the whole site, flitting about from the Apollo moonwalk to the Mets to Woodstock and beyond, then zeroing in on the North Shore for a well-told story about 1969 SURFER Poll winner Jock Sutherland surfing Waimea after dark wh...

BURNING MAN '64: DROPPING INTO THE WORLD TITLES at MANLY BEACH

And lo the story has been handed down through time, nigh on three score years now, one surf historian to the next—that Joey Cabell bunged himself out a world title in 1964 because he dropped in on other competitors like Tom Carroll on a six-shot espresso high. There was a new "sportsmanship" rule in place that year, designed to prevent, or at least reduce, drop-ins. Cabell ignored it. Midget Farre...

"BOBBY BROWN, THE SURFER TREND-SETTER," BY MIDGET FARRELLY (1967)

Midget Farrelly's tribute to Bobby Brown ran in the August 27, 1967, edition of the Sydney Morning Herald. A week earlier, Brown had been killed in a bar fight not far from his home in Cronulla. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Australian surfing suffered a great loss this week with the death of Sydney’s 22-year-old Bobby Brown. His name will not be quickly forgotten by...

ORAL HISTORY: THE QUIET, BRILLIANT, TRAGIC BOBBY BROWN

Bobby Brown of Cronulla, a smooth-surfing teenage finalist in the 1964 world titles, was as quiet and unassuming as he was talented. In 1967, just after filming what would be a star turn in Paul Witzig's Hot Generation, Brown was killed in a bar fight. He was 20. The following quotes are from various sources, both print and digital. * * * Bobby was one of the most photogenic surfers in the world...

"THE WISA HAPPENING AT MALIBU," BY KEVIN NAUGHTON (1975)

Kevin Naughton's article about the debut Women's International Surfing Association pro contest at Malibu, with photos by longtime travel partner Craig Peterson, ran in the December 1975 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Craig’s plan was ingenious, maybe even brilliant, but I still felt uneasy. In fact, at first I refused to go along with it. But when he ...

"SEVENTIES PRO GENESIS," BY PATTI PANICCIA - THE ORIGINS OF WOMEN'S PRO SURFING (2003)

This article was published in the Spring 2003 issue of Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * There’s a photo hanging on my wall that always attracts people’s attention. It’s not a particularly wonderful shot. It’s black and white, and barely in focus, and it’s aged so much over the years that the edges have turned a yellowish-brown. In the photo, I am walking down the be...

ORAL HISTORY: REMEMBERING AUSSIE TEEN-TERROR KEVIN BRENNAN

Kevin Brennan was a tough freckle-faced kid from Bondi Beach who won both the junior and senior divisions of the 1965 New South Wales State Championships. He was just 15. Two years later, filmmaker Paul Witzig captured Brennan and pal Bobby Brown surfing Noosa, and the resulting sequence was a highlight of Witzig's 1967 film Hot Generation. By the turn of the decade, however, Brennan had detached ...

"FAITHLESS LOVER TURNED TO STONE," ANCIENT HAWAIIAN LOVE-GONE-BAD SURFING LEGEND

This surf-themed legend was recounted by Honolulu Star-Bulletin writer Clarice B. Taylor in her "Tales About Hawaii" column on November 26, 1958. This version has been slightly edited. * * * As you travel along Kamehameha Highway on the western end of Oahu Island, you pass Waialee and come to a barren ridge above Paumalu Bay [Sunset Beacy]. There you will see a tourist bureau marker for the Geor...

"BROADS WHO RIDE BOARDS," BY PHIL JARRATT (1977)

Phil Jarratt's feature on women's surfing ran in the June 1977 issue of Tracks. As surf historian Geoff Cater noted on his website surfresearch.com, "While the use of 'Broads' in the article title was even then disparaging, in the same issue the editor [Jarratt] inaugurated a new page for kneeboarders, under the header 'Cripples Corner'." This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * *...