EOS Features

MISSIONARY IN PARADISE: EXCERPTS FROM HIRAM BINGHAM'S PUBLISHED WORKS

The first group of Hawaii-bound missionaries, led by Hiram Bingham, sailed from Boston Harbor in the Fall of 1819 and arrived at Kawaihae, Hawaii, a little over five months later. Below, in an excerpt from A Residence of Twenty-One Years in the Sandwich Islands, Bingham, describes the missionaries' first encounter with native Hawaiians. MARCH 31, 1820 A considerable number of the natives came off...

"INFINITE GAMES: THE FINAL DAYS OF PETER CRAWFORD," by DC GREEN

DC Green's profile of Australian kneeboarder and photographer Peter Crawford ran in the Summer 2004 issue of Surfer's Journal. Crawford died at age 48, on Christmas Day 1999, in Bali, reportedly due to complications from either a snake or spider bite. This version has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * 1995: The first Quiksilver G-Land world tour contest. Pro surfers filled the cabin at B...

"SURFING AND THE OLYMPICS," BY STEVE PEZMAN (1995)

This article ran in the Winter 1995 issue of Surfer's Journal. It has been slightly shortened and edited. * * * The revitalized International Surfing Association (ISA) has been marketing its new membership drive in print ads that cry out, “Join and Help Us Make Surfing an Olympic Sport.” Pardon me, but I think this is a dose of misplaced zeal. There are plenty of good reasons to join ISA but n...

1794: EXPLORER PETER PUGET, KEALAKEKUA BAY, HAWAII: "I WAS IN MOMENTARY EXPECTATION OF SEEING SOME DASHED TO PIECES"

Peter Puget was a lieutenant aboard the Discovery during its 1791-1795 global expedition. This journal entry was made during the Discovery's return to England. * * * From [Keeaumoku’s] village we walked through some pleasant cultivated Grounds to a Small Stony Beach where the natives were amusing themselves in the Surf on Swimming Boards. Nammahana, the wife of Tayomodu, who is reckoned one of t...

1788: EXPLORER JAMES MORRISON, MATAVAI BAY, TAHITI: "AT THIS DIVERSION BOTH SEXES ARE EXCELLENT"

James Morrison was boatswain's mate on the HMS Bounty. He was later court-martialed as a mutineer and sentenced to be hanged, but was pardoned and later returned to naval duty. His Bounty journal was not published until 1935. This version has been lightly edited * * * When the Westerly Winds prevail they have a heavy surf constantly running to a prodigious height on the shore & this affords exce...

1788: CAPTAIN WILLIAM BLIGH, MATAVAI BAY, TAHITI: "THE DELIGHT THEY TAKE IN THIS AMUSEMENT IS BEYOND ANYTHING"

British sea captain William Bligh served as sailing master beneath Captain Cook during Cook’s third and final voyage to the Pacific, which began in 1776. In 1787, Bligh captained the HMS Bounty during its famously and notoriously fraught voyage to the South Pacific. This entry was written five months before Bligh’s subordinates, sailing home from Tahiti, mutinied. Note: surfboards, below, are ref...

1779: EXPLORER JAMES KING, KEALAKEKUA BAY, HAWAII: "THE BOLDNESS AND ADDRESS IS SCARCELY TO BE CREDITED"

John Douglas of Scotland, a bishop and a scholar, edited various journals from Captain James Cook's second and third voyages to the Pacific. According to surf scholar Patrick Moser, the account below (likely first-drafted by Cook's second lieutenant, James King) was "the most influential account of Hawaiian surfing for the next 50 years," following its publication in 1784. * * * Swimming is not ...

1779: EXPLORER JAMES KING, KEALAKEKUA BAY, HAWAII: "THEY SEEM TO FEEL A GREAT PLEASURE IN THE MOTION WHICH THIS EXERCISE GIVES"

James King, second lieutenant on the Resolution during Cook's third and final voyage to the Pacific, became commander following Cook's violent death in Hawaii in 1779. This passage was written about three weeks before Cook died. It has been lightly edited. * * * [A] diversion most common is upon the Water, where there is a very great Sea, & surf breaking upon the Shore. The Men sometimes 20 or 3...

1779: EXPLORER GEORGE GILBERT, KEALAKEKUA BAY, HAWAII. BLIMEY, HOW D'YE PADDLE THESE THINGS?

George Gilbert was a midshipman on HMS Discovery during Captain James Cook's final voyage through the Pacificc. The exact date of this entry is unknown, but it was written in February 1779, and Cook was killed on the 14th of that month. As surf scholar Patrick Moser noted in his book Pacific Passages, Gilbert's final sentence, below, suggests that some of Cook's sailors tried their hand at paddlin...

1779: EXPLORER DAVID SAMWELL, KEALAKEKUA BAY, HAWAII: "THE MOTION IS SO RAPID THAT THEY SEEM TO FLY ON THE WATER"

David Samwell was surgeon's mate on both the Resolution and the Discovery during Captain James Cook's third and final voyage to the Pacific. This journal entry, which has been slightly edited, was written about three weeks before Cook was killed. * * * As two or three of us were walking along shore today we saw a number of boys & young Girls playing in the Surf, which broke very high on the Beac...