EOS Features

"HEY BRUDDA, SEE YOU IN THE TOP 16!" HO BROS PROFILE (1986)

Matt Warshaw's profile on Michael and Derek Ho ran in the October 1986 issue of SURFER. This version has been shortened and edited. * * * Sandy Beach, east side of Oahu. It’s just past noon, the sun is beating down dry and hot, the trades are wailing sideshore, the surf is head-high and gutless. Three local boys take turns on the set waves, turning across the choppy, blue faces, trying to connec...

THE LEGEND OF KELEA: "JOYFUL AT THE THOUGHT OF SURFING"

Samuel Manaiakalani Kamakau was a 19th-century native-born historian, teacher, and politician whose writings preserved much of Hawaii's pre-contact traditional culture and history. Kamakau was the first person to write down the story of Kelea, the independent surf-struck chiefess from Maui. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Kelea was a beautiful chiefess with clear skin and sparkling ...

1777: CANOE SURFING IN TAHITI, BY WILLIAM ANDERSON. “I COULD NOT HELP CONCLUDING THAT THIS MAN FELT THE MOST SUPREME PLEASURE”

William Anderson was the surgeon on Captain James Cook’s third voyage to the South Pacific. The entry, often mistakenly credited to Cook himself, was originally published in 1784 as part of Cook’s three-volume set A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Anderson's topic is the disposition of the local people. The text below has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Matavai Bay, Tahiti August 24-Septe...

1769: CANOE SURFING IN TAHITI, BY JOSEPH BANKS. “THEY WERE DRIVEN TOWARD SHORE WITH INCREDIBLE RAPIDITY”

Joseph Banks was a botanist on Captain James Cook’s first voyage to the Pacific Ocean. As the scene opens, Banks and Cook and other crew members are on their way back from an unsuccessful meeting with a local chief about replenishing food stocks, as well as returning items that had been stolen from the visitors overnight. This was originally published in 1784 as part of Cook’s three-volume set “A ...

CHAS SMITH TALKS SURFING, GOTCHA, AND COCAINE WITH MICHAEL TOMSON

Excerpted from Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, by Chas Smith, 2018 * * * It really is a wonder that cocaine transitioned from the disco dance floor to the go-go eighties without losing any steam. Gaining steam, even. Becoming a necessary component of yuppie life alongside skinny piano ties and giant mobile phones. It somehow didn’t retain any disco taint—th...

"THE SURFING PROFILE: MICHAEL TOMSON," BY DREW KAMPION (1979)

This article ran in the July 1979 issue of Surfing, when Michael Tomson was 24. The version below has been slightly shortened edited. * * * Except for Gavin Rudolph's brief hour of glory following a Smirnoff victory in 1971, no South African surfer has achieved such notable international competitive recognition as the Tomson cousins, Shaun and Mike. The fact that South Africa is a major surfing ...

"THE INSATIABLE CRAVINGS OF MICHAEL TOMSON," BY PHIL JARRATT (2015)

This article ran on Swellnet in July 2015, not long after Michael Tomson, 60, was arrested in Laguna Beach on felony drug charges with intent to sell. * * * Time, gentleman, please. The most distressing thing about Michael Tomson’s latest brush with the law over cocaine is that he doesn’t seem able to stop, and unless he does, it’s going to kill him. "Surfer Dies of Addiction" is sadly not ...

KEALOHA KAIO, QUIET BIG-WAVE MASTER

Kealoha Kaio was a native Hawaiian surfer who, in the early 1960s, quietly earned a solid-gold reputation as one of the world's best big-wave riders. He competed now and then but was better known for his relaxed no-drama style, even in the biggest, steepest, gnarliest waves. A lot of young big-wave hopefuls, including Eddie Aikau, imitated Kaio's approach. Most of his work life was spent driving a...

"HOW TO BODYSURF," by MARK CUNNINGHAM (2005)

This article ran in the June 2005 issue of Surfing magazine. * * * Editor's Note: Bodysurfing is about as pure as it gets. It may not be the most glamorous form of waveriding out there, but it'll give you a perspective unlike any other. Master bodysurfer Mark Cunningham tells you how it's done . . . . PREPARATION First off, you're not going to be a good bodysurfer if you’re not a strong swimmer...

"KAKU: MARK CUNNINGHAM PROFILE," by BRUCE JENKINS (1994)

This article ran in the Fall 1994 issue of Surfer's Journal. The version below has been slightly edited and shortened. * * * Gerry Lopez often says they should clear the water on a vintage day at Pipeline at least once a winter, just to give Mark Cunningham his due. “Let him have the place to himself,” said Gerry. “And everybody could watch.” With Cunningham, it’s never too late. As a lifeguard...