EOS Features

"IS SURFING HIP?" by SAM GEORGE (1998)

"Is Surfing Hip?" by Sam George, ran in the June 1998 issue of Surfer. This version has been slightly edited. * * * In a world of MTV Sports, X Games and Mountain Dew commercials, with Spandexed sky divers hopping out of planes with video cameras on their heads, with brain-dead bungee-jumpers falling off bridges for fun, with gang-baggy, shambling skaters scraping up against greasy parking lot p...

"CROSSROADS," TONY MONIZ PROFILE BY DEREK HYND (1991)

Derek Hynd's profile on Tony Moniz ran in the March 1991 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Near a decade back, Tony Moniz hooked into a twelve-footer at the Pipeline Masters—the type of wave that misses Second Reef and viciously stacks and stacks again in apex shifts. He slid down the face at the last instant with a deliberate layback takeoff, then switched t...

"THE NEW ADAM," MERV LARSON PROFILE BY DREW KAMPION (1970)

Drew Kampion's profile on Santa Barbara's futuristic wave-ski rider Merv Larson ran in the May 1970 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * You can see for yourself when Rincon is breaking good, or Secos or Huntington when they’re on. He works out through the lineup on his butt, sitting on a foam cushion, buckled into his seat belt, working a double-ended paddle, with his f...

"SOUNDS FROM THE SEA - THE GREATEST GIRL BATHER," SURF HISTORY DISCOVERY (1888)

This article ran in the July 31, 1888, issue of the Pittsburgh Press. The unnamed woman is almost certainly a wealthy Hawaii-raised teenager named Emma Spreckels, daughter of sugar baron Claus Spreckels and great-aunt to famed 1970s surfing antihero Adolph "Bunker" Spreckels. In August, the cover drawing on the National Police Gazette—a risque and hugely popular national tabloid specializing in cr...

"MYSTERY ACHIEVEMENT," DAMIEN HARDMAN PROFILE BY PHIL JARRATT (1988)

Phil Jarratt's profile on newly-crowned world champion Damien Hardman ran in the September 1988 issue of SURFER Magazine. * * * Never having met Damien Hardman—the man who would soon become world champion—I asked around about him. “He’s kinda like Simon Anderson in his approach to life,” said one person. “It’s that Narrabeen thing, I suppose. But I wouldn’t put Damien in Simon’s class. He hasn’t...

"GIDGET GIRLS," NEWSWEEK (2002)

Devon Gordon's feature on the original female Malibu surfers ran in the August 19, 2002, issue of Newsweek. * * * There were a few guys in the water at Malibu that Vicki Flaxman just wouldn’t mess with, even if they did cut her off in the lineup or snake her on a wave. Like Buzzy Trent, who played football—he was just too big. If he wanted the next wave, well, he could have it. But Vicki was near...

SHANE BESCHEN'S HISTORIC YET UNDERWHELMING PERFECT "30" HEAT AT KIRRA (1996)

Shane Beschen is the only pro surfer to score three 10s in the same heat, and he did it on three consecutive waves. A lot of WCT surfers—most, in fact—don't have three 10-point rides in their entire career. Beschen's triple-10 happened in Round Three of the 1996 Billabong Pro, the second event of the season, in good-not-great short-period surf at Kirra. Two weeks earlier, Kelly Slater had won the ...

COL SMITH OF NARRABEEN: "I'M GOING FOR THE BIG ONE!"

The following is an excerpt from Sean Doherty's 2021 book, "Golden Daze: Australia Surfing, Then to Now." This version has been slightly edited * * * Col Smith had just been asked in a 1977 Tracks interview if his surfing revolved around pulling off ‘gravity-defying stunts’. Col wasn’t sure if the interviewer was taking the piss. ‘Well, let me put it this way . . . .’ After a weighty pause, Col ...

“CALL THEM ALL,” NATHAN MYERS WRITES ABOUT DOING RESEARCH FOR ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SURFING (2003)

“Call Them All: Data Gathering for Surfing’s Ultimate Encyclopedia," by Nathan Myers, ran in the Fall 2003 issue of Surfer’s Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * YOU SHOULD HAVE CALLED AN HOUR AGO “Goddamn it! I’m so sick of you people calling up all the time and asking me the same shit,” the legendary Phil Edwards is yelling at me. I should be honored, but I don’t know any bet...

"SMITTY: THE NEW COL SMITH," BY RORY RUSSELL (1977)

Smitty: the New Col Smith, by Rory Russell, ran in the May 1978 issue of SURFER, when Smith was 21. This version has been slightly edited. * * * While traveling through Australia last year competing on the pro circuit, I had the opportunity to get acquainted with an energetic young man who is one of the best of Australia’s new, up-and-coming surfers. Competing against him in the finals of the Al...