EOS Features

"FIVE SET FOR PERU SURFING MEET," RABBIT KEKAI, BETTY HELDREICH, ETHEL KUKEA, CONRAD CANHA SET THEIR SIGHTS ON LIMA (1957)

After winning the Makaha International Surfing Championships two years running, Ethel Kukea and four other Hawaii-based surfers were invited to compete in the 1957 Peru International contest. Anne Lamont and Betty Heldreich were able to pay their own way to Lima. Kukea and the two male surfers—Rabbit Kekai and Conrad Canha—turned to the public in order to raise travel expenses. The Honolulu Advert...

"SURFING CHAMPION BACK FROM PERU," HONOLULU ADVERTISER (1957)

Pauline King's article on Betty Heldreich ran in the April 15, 1957, edition of the Honolulu Advertiser. This version has been slightly edited. * * * In two and a half years, Mrs. Ronald Heldreich went from surfing novice to winner of the women’s international surfing event held on March 23, in Lima, Peru. "I’ve flown gliders and airplanes and participated in all kinds of sports, but I’ve fou...

"WE'RE ALL RIGHT, JACK!" HELEN COVELL, SYDNEY MORNING HERALD (1964)

Helen Covell's article ran in the May 10, 1964, edition of the Sydney Morning Herald. This verison has been slightly edited * * * "Girls can't ride surfboards"—or so the boys say. But we can, and we've got the top girls to prove it. The boys say we aren't strong enough. We lack balance and gracefulness. We are too scared of scars to tackle the big waves. Boys don't give us much encourage...

"WORLD CHAMPION ENTERED AT MAKAHA," BY MARTYN CHASE, HONOLULU STAR-BULLETIN (1964)

"World Champion Entered at Makaha," by Martyn Chase, ran in the December 16, 1964, edition of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin. This version has been slightly edited. * * * When Phyllis O’Donell first tried to surf five years ago. the beach boys in Australia laughed at her. But today Miss O’Donell is the holder of the women’s world championship in surfing and is one of the leading contenders in the...

"THE MINI BOARDS" BY DICK BREWER (1968)

"The Mini Boards," a single-page article by Dick Brewer, ran in the June 1968 issue of Petersen's Surfing magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * The mini boards are the most important breakthrough in surfing in recent years. It took the Aussies to do it. The simple fact is that you just don’t need ten feet of surfboard to ride a wave effectively up and down the curl line; one ne...

“THE SURFING YEARS” 1966 AUSSIE DOCUMENTARY

Surfer and budding film producer-director Peter Clifton, of Sydney, was 25 when he made The Surfing Years, with funding from the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. The hour-long TV special debuted in late 1966. It follows three surfers and a pair of young women on a cramped one-car road trip from Whale Beach, Sydney, to Noosa Heads, with stops at Crescent Head, Byron Bay, and Surfers Paradise. W...

“FLOORBOARD ALL THE WAY: A PROFILE OF DANE KEALOHA,” PHIL JARRATT (1979)

Phil Jarratt’s profile of Dane Kealoha ran in the January 1979 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * “I want to try and do everything. As much turning and as many radical maneuvers as I can do—you know, just overpower the wave.” Dane Kealoha speaking. He of the Charles Atlas physique and Larry Bertlemann school of rip and tear. The dark kid with the muscles on h...

“THE ENDLESS SUMMER: THEN AND NOW,” MIKE HYNSON PROFILE IN SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE (2001)

Jamie Reno's profile on Mike Hynson ran in the July 2001 issue of San Diego magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * When Del Mar Fair organizers agreed on the theme for this year’s run—“Endless Summer, Endless Fun”—they thought it would be cool to invite the stars of the 1960s surf epic The Endless Summer to Del Mar to greet fair-goers on opening day. After all, the film, a sunny ...

“RAINBOW'S END,” MIKE HYNSON PROFILE BY STEVE BARILOTTI (2007)

Steve Barilotti's profile on Mike Hynson ran in the August 2007 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Jimi Hendrix had been dead a year, but the revolution—or at least a movie version of it—kept right on jammin’ without him. Less than a month after Hendrix played a free concert on the slopes of Mt. Haleakalā, effectively wrapping principal photography for Rainbow Bridge,...

“CROSSROADS,” BY MATT GEORGE (1988)

Matt George’s critique of the ASP world tour ran in the December 1988 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * During its 12-year existence, the world professional surfing tour has changed the face of the surfing experience, and all of us along with it. Despite the rose-colored view offered by organizations, sponsors, media, and some competitors, all is not well wit...