Drew Kampion's profile on Margo Godfrey ran in the June 1979 issue of Surfing magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * She's been the number-one woman surfer for so long now that most of us cannot remember when she wasn't. She was the 15-year-old who deposed Joyce Hoffman in 1968, both on the AAAA circuit in California and in the World Contest in Puerto Rico. She was close in 19...
Michael Tomson covered the four-event 1979 Japan leg of the WCT for Surfing magazine. The article ran in the October issue. This version has been lightly edited. * * * It was Sunday, May 12, at Tsushido Beach in Shonan, Japan, and the T-shirt in front of me had five names already scrawled on it in heavy black marker pen: Mark Richards, Shaun, Michael Ho . . . all surfers he had seen in Free R...
Without much effort, we could bang out a list of 10 or 20 moments, some of them decades apart, each with a claim to being the point where surfing finally and forever crossed over from cool to not-cool. Which claim wins? Any of them, all of them, or none, depending on where your head's at, as we used to say in the '60s—back when surfing was, maybe, still cool. At the moment, my top-of-the-ballot ...
"Jack is Nimble, Jack is Quick," uncredited, ran in the April 1970 issue of Petersen's Surfing magazine. Dunn was 13 years old. This version has been lightly edited. * * * Alright . . . . At Honolua Bay, Jackie Dunn rides as well as the seasoned pros. Some say he’s as good as Jeff Hakmanl was a decade ago when he was blowing minds at Sunset. Jackie, a rail-thin goofy footer who wears his trun...
This advertisement ran in an unknown newspaper—possibly the Long Beach Press-Telegram or the Balboa Times—on August 4, 1928. For ease of reading, the text in full is presented below, the ad itself is seen at the bottom of the page * * * AN INVITATION TO YOU OF "ORANGE COUNTY" SPEND THE DAY WITH US AT THE "CORONA DEL MAR BEACHES" ON EAST SIDE OF NEWPORT BAY BRING YOUR PICNIC BASKETS—PLENTY O...
Midget Farrelly's article on the Windansea Surf Club's recent visit to Australia ran in the December 10, 1967, issue of the Sydney Morning Herald. The American surfers had arrived in Sydney equipped with 9' 6" noseriders, only to find that the local surfers, with Farrelly and Bob McTavish leading the way, had recently begun riding smaller, lighter, more performance-oriented boards. This was the mo...
"Surfers Splash at Chilly Shore," Jon Clemen's report on the Polar Bear Surfing Meet in Ocean City, New Jersey, ran in the December 1966 issue of the Hackensack Record. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Despite the rays of a timid winter sun glinting across snow-covered Ocean City beach, it was a cold day to ride a wave’s crest to shore. But at the second annual Polar Bear Surfing ...
Nancy Mistral's one-page article on women's surfing in New Jersey was published in the Summer 1965 issue of Eastern Surf magazine. * * * The women's surfing contest at Point Pleasant Bench on April 17 developed into an unexpected surprise for all—giving encouragement to the timid novice and greatly increased respect for these former gremlins to the wiser and more accomplished men who were th...
Brian Gillogly's profile on Lynne Boyer ran in the March 1978 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Near the bottom of a thick Sunset Beach ledge, she engages the rail and sets a defiantly tight course. Long legs slightly bent and lean torso pitched well forward, she jets along a very straight, clean line until that point where the energy momentarily recedes; where the...
Drew Kampion's feature on the making of ABC-TV's Grajagan episode of American Sportsman, which aired in Spring of 1981, ran in the December 1980 issue of Surfing. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Some years ago, while traveling in the Indonesian archipelago, well-known Long Island pro surfer Ricky Rasmussen and a few others visited a long, perfect wave that wrapped along a jungle-...