LeRoy Grannis
Carlsbad, California, 1994
I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."
![LeRoy Grannis featured - Encyclopedia of Surfing](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/c49b3666ccc3e72c6f7ba861e59503b9c300a594-900x506.jpg?w=900&h=506&q=65&auto=format)
I drove to Malibu after the war, and there were a dozen guys in the water. I turned to a friend of mine and said, "Well, it's ruined."
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