Mike Purpus

Hermosa Beach, 1970

I always dreamed bigger than my friends.

SURFER Magazine's "What is Surfing?" article ran in the November 1970 issue. Purpus was one of 28 featured surfers, all of whom were asked the same set of questions. WHAT OTHER EXPERIENCE PARALLELS SURFING? Riding my Makaha skateboard while sauced on a gallon of Red Mountain. WHAT FEELING DO YOU GET WHILE RIDING IN THE TUBE? Like I'm locked in a closet with Raquel Welch. AFTER A GOOD RIDE? The ...

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