The Sunday Joint

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-12-2019: MICHAEL TOMSON, GOTCHA, CHAS SMITH, COCAINE

Hey All, I have no doctor’s note to prove it, but at the south end of my duodenal bulb, hard against the superior flexure, is a nubbin of scar tissue marking the place where an ulcer sprouted and flourished over a six-month period in 1986 when I dated Michael Tomson’s not-quite-ex-girlfriend. Just an extended summer romance. Nothing at the outset, flirty and harmless, haha, nobody even knew! Then...

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-5-2020: MARK CUNNINGHAM, RUSSELL HUGHES, POINT PANIC

Hey All, Panic moments are sprinkled across my timeline like Carolina Reaper pepper flakes—Highway One spinout, big Ocean Beach, the Northridge earthquake, cuckoldry exposed, Ocean Beach again, preschool treehouse fail, and really big Ocean Beach. Each episode blindsided me. By nature, I do not seek thrills. Yet looking back now, all snuggled up into a risk-managed late-middle-age, I am proud and...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6/28/2020: WSL, MARGOT ROBBIE, SURF RANCH

Hey All, Company policy here at Encyclopedia of Surfing states that we almost never promote on behalf of other entities, profit or nonprofit. Dance on the edge of corporate financial ruin long enough, and you learn to put your hand out rarely and selectively, and yes that is a subtle heads-up for the Fall 2020 EOS Fundraiser. But today I make an exception. Today I ask you, Bob Hurley, or you, Fe...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-21-2020: SALUTE TO THE PATTERSON BROTHERS

Hey All, The Patterson brothers of Hawaii—Bobby, Raymond, and Ronald—learned to surf in Waikiki during the 1940s and moved to California, one after the other, in the mid-’50s. None of them lived to see age 61, and each had their share of bumps and hardships. But the Patterson legend is as warm and upbeat as Ron Stoner’s is bleak and melancholy. Read their EOS page here. Better yet, click here for...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-14-2020: HE IS LARGER THAN LIFE, BUT IS NAT YOUNG THE ONE?

Hey All, If I were running EOS the way the incomparable Ms. Gunsolus is running my son’s virus-age online 4th-grade class, you would each be assigned to watch this new video of Nat Young, read this Proust-length “Animal Tracks” profile of Young by Drew Kampion, then buy and install an 85" flat-screen TV in preparation for our EOS Team Zoom call which would likely go something like this except we’...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-7-2020: WSL, BOBBY OWENS, BO DIDDLEY

Hey All, Spent the morning running my fingers through the Sunday Joint shake, flicking stems and seeds out the window into the cool Pacific Northwest spring breeze, and—yes indeed, we got enough here to spark one up. Chris Baker of San Francisco recently called my attention to a river wave in Bude, North Cornwall. If you like your novelty surf mixed with Old World charm, hurly-burly storm weathe...

SUNDAY JOINT, 5-31-2020: THE DOORS, SURFING AND SMOKING, SURF DOGS, "MALIBU U"

Hey All, I’m elbow-deep in EOS housecleaning this week, which, let’s be honest, means fixing shit I didn’t do right the first time. Like posting all these Joints on the actual EOS site, as opposed to just lodging them in your inbox each Sunday. The Joint itself, for that matter, was invented in order to fix a mistake: I began sending these in September 2017, but there should have been a weekly ne...

SUNDAY JOINT, 5-24-2020: TED DEERHURST, PRINCE CHARLES, BOBBY OWENS,

Hey All, The name itself, as is always the case with British aristocracy, is both ridiculous and impressive: Edward George William Omar Coventry, Viscount Deerhurst, future 12th Earl of Coventry. “Lord Ted” to his surfer pals. “Sugar Teddy” to a generation of Femme Nu strippers. (I made that last one up, except the part about Ted having a thing for strippers.) If you were a fine-print-loving worl...

SUNDAY JOINT, 5-17-2020: MIKE ARMSTRONG, PIPELINE MASTERS, LARRY BLAIR

Hey All, My first favorite piece of contest writing came at the end of SURFER magazine’s coverage of the 1972 Pipeline Masters, won in convincing fashion by Gerry Lopez. No author credit is given, but here is the wonderful sentence in full: “Trying to out-do Lopez, surfing frontside at this favorite spot is, ahh . . . well, how much do they give for second?” A paltry $250, but that’s beside the ...

SUNDAY JOINT, 5-10-2018: HOT CURL, GEORGE DOWNING, LITTLE RICHARD, CARDIFF KOOK

Hey All, Last week’s hot curl exploration began with high surf-history purpose. The Depression Age design breakthrough got its long-overdue EOS page. Hot curl inventor John Kelly describes the board’s origin story. Froiseth, Downing, Kekai, and Quigg all chip in, and surf historian Mark Fragale wraps things up here. No doubt, the hot curl is a bright red chisel-tip Sharpie moment on our board de...