The Sunday Joint

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-30-2023: DYLAN, NIXON, JEPSEN—EVERYBODY PLAYED THE CIVIC

Hey All, Wave-wise, Santa Monica is not even in the conversation as a great surfing town. You can scrape together a decent surf life here, but only by commuting up and down the coast. I learned to surf in Santa Monica at age nine, and by ten I’d already learned to call Bay Street “Bay Slop.” Zero local pride, wave-wise, except maybe for the Cove, but that’s another story. Nobody lives in Santa M...

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-23-2023: BLACK KNIGHT VS MR. CLEAN

Hey All, A recent Sunday Joint shot of Fabian (click here, scroll down) in those flawless two-tone trunks but paddling with all the grace and control of a Carly Rae Jepsen first pitch, prompted Randy Rarick to go deep into the memory hole. Long known as “Mr. Clean,” Rarick is incapable of offhand meanness—but he is getting saltier as he ages, and I hope the trend continues. Here is the email Rand...

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-16-2023: SCHLOCK AND AWE—A BEACH HORROR DOUBLE FEATURE

Hey All, The EOS team is 75% fraidy-cat when it comes to scary movies. Jaws, for some reason, didn’t set me back the way it did for a lot of other impressionable mid-’70s surfers. But Carrie destroyed my interest in horror as completely as Sissy Spacek destroyed prom night, and I don’t think I’ve made it through a scary movie since, not that I’ve made much of an effort—20 minutes of Get Out was e...

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-9-2023: LISA ANDERSEN AND EMMA SPRECKELS GO ALL THE WAY—TO PAGE ONE

Hey All, Except for Jesus and Elvis, every famous person’s life eventually gets reduced down and poured into the smallest possible container, and while Florida-based surf photographer Tom Dugan worked miracles at Sebastian Inlet, he will not be mistaken for the Redeemer—redheads never are—and thus I believe Dugan’s contribution will in time rest on just two images. Which is more than most of us w...

SUNDAY JOINT, 7-2-2023: THE CRUELTY, IRONY, AND JOY OF THE SHAKA

Hey All, Do you throw the shaka? If so, do you mean it? The first question is easy, yes or no. The second question is maybe a little harder. In this Age of Perpetual Satire, we would need a full statistical analysis with a side order of boolean function in order to estimate the percentage of ironically-thrown shakas. “A shit-ton” is the best I can do this afternoon. The shaka, of course, long ago...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-25-2023: HEY GANG! LET’S PUT ON A SURF CONTEST!

Hey All, Pointing out the smallness of 1970s world tour surfing won’t raise any untrimmed eyebrows over at the Society of American Historians. Smallness is a cornerstone of the WCT origin story. To demonstrate growth, the tour will invariably harken back upon its kitchen-table origins, the tiny but hardcore cluster of spectators at the early events, the blue-collar paychecks. (Eddie Aikau, 1975’s...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-18-2023: THE SEASIDE STOMP

Hey All, Localism was already a thing in 1972—you might even say it was the thing, in terms of the sport jumping all over a new trend—but for most of us it was still a rumor, a bit of sidewalk graffiti, a lustily shouted “GO HOME, KOOK!” after a drop-in by a non-local surfer. Of course, we’d been tribal for 20-plus years by that point. “Locals Only” blew up not just for its perfect four-syllable ...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-11-2023: AGING AND RAGING—A SALUTE TO FEARLESS OLD SURFERS

Hey All, Deep in the weeds here at Encyclopedia of Surfing HQ, spit-shining every page before gently, carefully moving it to the new platform. We’re still a few weeks out, and I’m adding an extra few days at least to account for all the time where I’m side-tracked looking at posts I haven’t seen for years, some of which go back to 2013. A few things have stuck out. Mostly, and I’ve come back to t...

SUNDAY JOINT, 5-14-2023: THE POWER AND SUPERPOWER OF DANE KEALOHA

Hey All, Dane Kealoha of Hawaii has died at age 64, after a long fight with cancer that nobody outside of family and friends knew anything about. Social media jumped the gun, as usual. Last weekend, before I'd even replied to the first of many texts from many people alerting me that Dane had passed, I got an email from son Kelai Kealoha saying that "Dad is very sick" but not gone. Dane hung in th...

SUNDAY JOINT, 6-4-2023: EVERYTHING BUT THE TALLAHATCHIE BRIDGE

Hey All, My wife and her two sisters used to get dropped off at their grandparents’ house, and sometimes for lunch the girls were treated to Jello Surprise in which, through some midcentury kitchen magic, pieces of fruit and mini-marshmallow were suspended in the Jello like tiny sea creatures. So far so good. In her declining years, however, Grandma Mildred became, let’s say, a bit more freestyle...