Hey All,

“Beautiful from Any Angle,” the latest History of Surfing chapter, got things rolling last week, and put me into another one of my periodic Ron Stoner swoons. Twenty-something years now I’ve been writing about Ron, and every time I am both inspired and depressed by the man’s short, brilliant, sad life. Looking over all the interviews I’ve done with people who know or worked with or surfed with Ron, it occurred to me that only about 5% of what I have had been published, and that a version of Ron’s story could be told by way of an oral history, using those interviews. So that’s what I die. Hopefully that takes care of my Stoner obsession for the next few years. Here’s one last pic, and one last quote from Stoner’s friend Steve Kroll. “Ron had a lot of style, and he ran with the style guys.” He did indeed.

Encyclopedia of Surfing

I spent the rest of my work week in the (digital) company of Lynn Boyer. Found this short interview with her from a 1976 surf movie—is it more cringe-worthy than funny, or the other way around? More funny, I say. This new Boyer clip, on the other hand, is all speed and velocity and joy. My favorite part is at 1:47, when that beast of a wave heaves its innards while our hero dances off into daylight. Margo Oberg was the rock of women’s surfing at that point, Lynn was fire, and the two of them together were magnificent. Two screen-grabs from Lynn's video.

Encyclopedia of Surfing
Encyclopedia of Surfing

The debut Duke Invitational event is on deck for this week. Fred Van Dyke was contest director for that one, and I’m thinking it’s time to get his interview on EOS. Got a clip or two up my sleeve as well.

I’ll be in New Smyrna Beach this Friday and Saturday, Nov. 10 and 11, for the Florida Surf Film Festival. I did a three-night gig with FSFF a couple months ago, and these guys put on a great show. If you’re in the area, by all means come on out.