Returned early this morning (really early: 3:30 AM) from Costa Rica, tanned and exhausted and getting zen with my ever-advancing level of personal surfing decrepitude. I’m upright and trimming? Good enough! Prone to the beach, and what’s for lunch?
“Hippie Trail Gold” posted this afternoon on History of Surfing, which takes our story to the incense-and-frangipani-scented waters of Bali. I didn’t make it to Indonesia until the early ’90s, but knew within a week that Indo has it all over Hawaii if (like me) you’re willing to trade raw Pacific Ocean power for that Indian Ocean refinement and surfability. The Racetrack section at Ulu spoke to my inner depths in a way that the North Shore never did. And while we’re here, how many of you had this Merkel-shot poster of Peter McCabe at Outside Corner thumbtacked to your bedroom wall in 1976? Just a guess, but my high school GPA was likely reduced by 0.20 from of all the time I spent gazing at this reef break beauty. Too big for me at age 15 . . . but maybe not. In the ballpark at least, unlike all the Pipeline foolishness the magazines sledgehammered us with that decade. And every decade since.
Haven’t yet lined up this week’s posts. Rusty Miller clip? Or is that just the jet lag talking? No, I think a Rusty Miller clip is a perfect way to get back into the swing.
Thanks for reading, and see you next week.