“THE GREAT WAVES OF DECEMBER ’SIXTY-NINE,” BY RICK GRIGG (1971)
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This article was originally published in the August 1971 issue of SURFER. Photos of Waimea Bay, above, by Roger Sames. * * * At 11:30 p.m. on the night of Monday, December 1, 1969, Madeline Valentine awoke to the sounds of screaming sirens. A Sunset Beach fire truck was slowly moving down the road behind her beachfront home. Someone was yelling, "Evacuate! Evacuate!" Rushing outside, she and her...
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