"THERE ARE OTHER CHRISTMAS ISLANDS IN THE LIVES OF MEN," BY DAVE PARMENTER (1994)
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This article ran in the Fall 1994 issue of The Surfer's Journal. It has been slightly edited and shortened. Surf and lineup photos by Bernie Baker. * * * My wetsuit was frozen to the ground. I pulled it from the frosted grass with a ripping Velcro sound and shook the powdery dandruff of frost away. Neoprene rigor mortis. I threw the suit onto the fence with disgust and sat down on the porch whe...
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