WAIMEA '57: "WE FEW . . . WE SHIT-SCARED BUT HAPPY FEW"
![](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/e9fdb5c9a3966194b76463509f0e686a2a26dc20-900x506.jpg?w=900&h=506&q=65&auto=format)
Two weeks ago I gushed forth on how Riding Giants tweaked my whole understanding about how to present surf history. Dress it up, I said. Make it dance and sparkle—history need not be as dull and lifeless as a Mike Pence tailgate party. On the other hand, a little sparkle goes a long way. Dance with the truth, not away from it. I talked about how I love, in Giants, when director Stacy Peralta, for...
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