Noll and Munoz, first day at Waimea
Waimea Bay. Photo: Warren Bolster
Munoz (left) and Stange, first day at Waimea. Photo: Don James
Pat Curren was the insider’s pick as the consummate North Shore big-wave surfer, but Greg Noll wanted to carry the banner, and nobody got in his way. Not only was Noll the biggest, loudest surfer on the block, he was also more focused than anybody on turning the sport into a vocation; by 1957 he was producing surf movies and running Greg Noll Surfboards, and he’d soon be publishing a surf magazine...