Chris O'Rourke
California, 1978
Guys wanted to burn my house down for things that I’ve done.

"Chris O'Rourke: I'm Sure Gonna Try!", written by photographer Warren Bolster, was published in the August 1978 issue of SURFER, when O'Rourke was 19. One year earlier, O'Rourke had been diagnosed with Hodgkin's disease. * * * When did you really start getting into surfing? Around sixth grade. My family moved to Windansea, and it totally changed my whole idea on surfing, because it was a reef b...
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