Shaun Tomson
Australia, 1978
Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.
![Shaun Tomson featured - Encyclopedia of Surfing](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/18c6a0298994d4d01f1775b1585f750bbcc2bdf0-1040x585.jpg?w=1040&h=585&q=65&auto=format)
Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes . . . it's joy, fear and accomplishment all rolled into one experience.
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