George Greenough. Photo: John Witzig
Greenough. Photo: Alby Falzon
Rincon. Photo: Joe Quigg
George Greenough, 1966
George Greenough. Photo: Alby Falzon
Near the beginning of Endless Summer, a Santa Barbara kneeboarder named George Greenough rides one of the finest-looking waves in the picture—a small but incredibly long peeler at a break called Sandspit. Filmmaker Bruce Brown offered the wave as a kind of novelty (“a short board and a long ride”) and moved on. Brown didn’t know it at the time, but what he'd captured at Sandspit was the shortboard...