Peanuts Larson, San Onofre, 1939
Photo: Don James
San Onofre contest. Photo: Ball
Duke Kahanamoku (center), San Onofre
San Onofre was the sweet and easy low-simmering crucible of American surfing in the 1930s and early 1940s. Tiny pod-like surfing communities took root in California from San Diego’s Mission Beach all the way up to Pacifica in the San Francisco Bay Area; Virginia already had three decades of surf history; and Florida had enough riders by the end of the Depression that Daytona Beach was able to host...