Chapter: 2
Gliding Return
- A Fine Little Revival
- Jack London Loves Purple
- California: The New Frontier
- Beachboy Life
- Duke Kahanamoku
- Surf Shooting Down Under
- The Bronzed Islander Shows How
- Surfing in the Jazz Age
- Tom Blake Redesigns the Sport
- What Depression?
- When Clubbies Ruled Australia
- Surfboard as Woodcraft
- Palos Verdes Surfing Club
- San Onofre: the Nearest Faraway Place
- Riding the Hot Curl
- Enter Makaha
- Death at Waimea
- The Overwhelming North Shore
The Overwhelming North Shore
![Sunset Beach. Photo: Bill Cleary](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/1ec5d4e8948931d160ae9cd2270a783f3fd86b95-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Sunset Beach. Photo: Bill Cleary
![Woody Brown](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/67c7bea9866fe5f20c5215b22110664b4c1bbb72-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Woody Brown
![Rabbit Kekai. Photo: Clarence Maki](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/12bef6f8b7c2c780f0658ec14577a3d7da9b288a-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Rabbit Kekai. Photo: Clarence Maki
The North Shore squared up directly against both incoming waves and storms, which meant bigger waves, plenty of rain, stronger winds. A vast network of reefs began at the water's edge and moved seaward in an irregular progression for up to a mile offshore, with breaks often shingled one on top of the other. It was overwhelming, particularly in the early years.
Froiseth, Kelly, and a few others also began making day trips out to the North Shore, after hearing stories from visiting California surfers Whitey Harrison and Tarzan Smith about a powerful reef break near Haleiwa Town. The North Shore was about the same distance from Waikiki as Makaha, but much easier to get to: drive straight across the island on the well-paved Kamehameha Highway, through the c...
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