Pat Curren (left) and Al Nelson, North Shore, 1957
Dana Point, 1950. Photo: Phil Vedder.
Surf car, late '50s. Photo: John Severson
By late 1953, during his second year in Hawaii, Buzzy Trent was the ringleader among a dozen or so California surfers living in a pair of Makaha Valley shack houses. It was the mainlanders’ third season on this side of the island, and news of their odd little commune had reached Honolulu. A 25-year-old Honolulu Star-Bulletin reporter named Sarah Park drove out to investigate. Trent told her that t...