Chapter: 3
Malibu Swing
- Freezing the Moment with Doc Ball
- A Touch of Glamour
- Bob Simmons, Gnarled Genius
- Darrylin, Oh Darrylin
- The Magic Wave
- Velzy's Pig
- Dewey Weber, Hotdog Jesus
- Tubesteak Abides
- A Rebel for All Seasons
- The Valley Cometh
- Hawaii Calls
- Rocket to Makaha
- Buzzy Trent, King of Beasts
- Surfing's Beat Generation
- France and Peru Join In
- A Restart for Australia
- Bud Browne Presents
- Point Surf '58
- The Viking King of Mead Hall
- An Exorcism at Waimea
- A Farewell to Clubs
Hawaii Calls
![Rabbit Kekai, Makaha](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/8d37c56a9a3612eb7396cedc5649ae43fce56062-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Rabbit Kekai, Makaha
![Waikiki Surf Club, early '50s](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/945c888ca082b0f40b71fa450e76e6ab68128954-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Waikiki Surf Club, early '50s
![Northwest Airlines ad, 1956](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/c733bc9f41295e6744c41e7826f95868557cbbc8-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Northwest Airlines ad, 1956
![Gary Cooper, Waikiki, 1952. Photo: Clarence Maki](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/08b9520d6a641fd692571ff068266f88414d57fa-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Gary Cooper, Waikiki, 1952. Photo: Clarence Maki
![Tarzan Smith, right](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/cdd9a287d6aaacf017d8009be02cad356b3f6377-900x506.jpg?w=640&h=360&q=65&auto=format)
Tarzan Smith, right
Rabbit Kekai rode Queen's like Napoleon surveying the infantry: heels touching, hands cupped together at waist level, back straight, hips forward, head slightly cocked—the very model of mid-century Hawaiian surfing style.
Malibu was a great surf break, but it was never the ultimate surfers’ destination. It wasn’t tropical, or exotic, or gut-testing. In short, it wasn’t Hawaii. Every surfer worthy of the name, Malibu diehards included, spent a lot of time either reliving or planning their big trip to the Islands. So did a lot of other people, especially Americans. Politically and economically, Hawaii was now closer...
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